1982, privit de mulți drept cea mai mare recoltă a timpurilor moderne, a văzut SUA
obțineți gustul pentru en primeur, iar Bordelais descoperă coacerea. Douazeci si cinci
ani după ce a fost gustat pentru prima dată, NICHOLAS FAITH se întoarce în timp
În 1982, considerat de mulți ca fiind cea mai mare recoltă a timpurilor moderne, SUA a văzut gustul pentru en primeur, iar Bordelais-ul descoperă maturitatea. La douăzeci și cinci de ani după ce a fost gustat pentru prima dată, Nicholas Faith se întoarce în timp.
Vintage 1982 nu avea să fie niciodată unul normal. Pentru început, așa cum Christian Moueix (acum al lui Pétrus, apoi al firmei sale de negociere a familiei, JP Moueix) subliniază: „A fost o vară perfectă, ca cele din 1989 și 2005”.
Pentru Jean-Bernard Delmas, care apoi conducea Haut-Brion, „A fost o vară de fotoliu, caldă și uscată, deci nu erau boli, nici insecte care să ne îngrijoreze”. Nu exagera. Iarna fusese blândă, luna aprilie a fost uscată și însorită și, în afară de câteva furtuni de grindină împrăștiate, luna mai a fost la fel de promițătoare. Iunie și iulie au oferit un amestec excelent, chiar dacă foarte cald, de soare și averse, în timp ce august și începutul lunii septembrie, cu temperaturi la 30 ° C, nu au făcut nimic pentru a deteriora strugurii sau pentru a preveni recolta timpurie - începând cu 15 septembrie, chiar și în Médoc. Rezultatul a fost Merlot cu mai mult de 13% alcool potențial, chiar mai mult decât Cabernet, care a atins mai mult de 12% - niveluri considerate atunci remarcabile.
Nu a fost prima astfel de epocă postbelică. Totuși, 1959 a fost la fel de bun
din cauza vinificației de slabă calitate la acea vreme, „jumătate a ajuns ca oțet”, a spus Moueix. În 1982 „totul a fost ușor”. Pentru tatăl său, legendarul Jean-Pierre, Pétrus seamănă cu anul 1947, dar cu două diferențe majore: da, era „concentrat și puternic”, dar era „mai puțin dens” decât predecesorul său. Un comentariu aproape de necrezut pentru mine, având în vedere că Pétrus din 1982 pe care l-am gustat la începutul anului 1983 a fost cel mai dens, concentrat claret pe care l-am avut vreodată.
Cu toate acestea, fiecare comentator remarcă modul în care echilibrul perfect al acestor vinuri înseamnă că acestea sunt, în cuvintele unui expert poetic „ca bărbații mari care dansează ușor”. Poate că strugurii au fost coapte și vara fierbinte, dar nu a fost la fel de fierbinte ca 1947, așa că nu a existat niciun semn al gustului ars care a marcat vinurile. Totuși, curățenia strugurilor și căldura în timpul recoltei necesitau echipamente de răcire adecvate, pe care doar câteva moșii le dețineau. La Château Margaux, Emile Peynaud, în mod normal infailibil, a intrat în panică, îngrijorându-se că temperaturile excesive din vechile cuve de lemn ale castelului ar opri fermentarea. El a sunat-o pe Corinne Mentzelopoulos, conducând moșia după moartea tatălui său André
anul precedent și i-a cerut să sancționeze achiziționarea a 20.000 de lire sterline de pompe de răcire.
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- Vezi și: David Peppercorn’s Raport vintage Bordeaux din 1982 - 2005
- Pentru mai multe despre vinurile de vin din Bordeaux și din întreaga lume, consultați decanter.com ‘S Ghiduri de epocă pagină. Scris de Nicholas Faith
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