Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca a fost foarte dezamăgit de această degustare din 2009, citând eșecul vinificatorilor de a aborda cât de dificilă a fost recolta ca unul dintre motivele acestei prezentări „triste”.
„Puțini ani din 2009 au justificat optimismul în ceea ce privește longevitatea lor, iar majoritatea producătorilor au vorbit despre anul 2009 ca fiind o epocă de băut pe termen scurt”
Vintage 2009 din Barolo va confrunta consumatorii cu unele adevăruri dure și cu unele vinuri dure. Am gustat peste 200 de exemple de Barolo 2009 la Nebbiolo Prima din Alba în luna mai. Majoritatea vinurilor oferite pe parcursul celor cinci zile ale evenimentului nu numai că nu au lipsit de culoarea clasică Nebbiolo, dar nu au prezentat aproape nici arome, nici arome Nebbiolo.
Îmi place Barolo și îi respect și îi admir pe mulți dintre producătorii săi pentru devotamentul lor și claritatea viziunii lor. Cu toate acestea, trebuie să spun că în această epocă performanța multora dintre ele nu a lipsit pur și simplu, a fost dezastruoasă.
Desigur, au existat excepții: mai mulți producători - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, pentru unii - s-au dovedit a fi Barolo destul de potabil. Câțiva - în special Pio Cesare și Massolino-Vigna Rionda - chiar au încredere în potențialul de îmbătrânire al vinului lor. Această opinie a fost repetată frecvent de comercianți și cumpărători, care au gustat o selecție a acestor vinuri cu o săptămână mai devreme decât jurnaliștii și cu producătorii (nu orbi). Dar în palatul meu - și în opinia multor jurnaliști cu care am vorbit - majoritatea factorilor de decizie Barolo par să fi subestimat sever dificultatea acestei recolte. Puțini ani din 2009 au justificat optimismul în ceea ce privește longevitatea lor, iar majoritatea producătorilor au vorbit despre anul 2009 ca fiind o recoltă de băut pe termen scurt.
Giacomo Conterno, de la crama Aldo Conterno din comuna Monforte, a fost unul dintre cei mai franci producători. El a spus: „2009 a fost o recoltă a vinului. La sfârșitul lunii august, unele viță de vie [Nebbiolo] erau deja aproape coapte, iar altele erau complet necoapte - diferență de aproape 30 de zile între ele. Ceea ce ați făcut în legătură cu acest lucru a determinat ce fel de vin ați făcut. ”Evaluarea de obicei optimistă a Consorzio a recoltei din acest an este foarte protejată:
„Anul 2009 va fi amintit, de asemenea, pentru modelul său de maturare neregulată… În ceea ce privește maturarea tehnologică, anul poate fi plasat între 2003 și 2007… În ceea ce privește maturarea fenolică… datele găsite în struguri au fost comparabile cu 2003… în această epocă, rezultatele nu au fost întotdeauna îmbunătățite prin întârzierea recoltei. '
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Scris de Tom Maresca
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