Terroir este unul dintre acele cuvinte pe care toată lumea din lumea vinului le îmbrățișează, dar ce înseamnă cu adevărat? Și chiar are efect asupra vinurilor pe care producătorii le pretind? Rupert Joy sapă adânc pentru a afla
Terroir este unul dintre acele cuvinte pe care toată lumea din lumea vinului le îmbrățișează, dar ce înseamnă cu adevărat? Și chiar are efect asupra vinurilor pe care producătorii le pretind? Rupert Joy sapă adânc pentru a afla
kuwtk sezonul 12 episodul 3
La sud de Condrieu, în nordul Ronului, se află micul apelativ Château-Grillet. Cele 3,4 hectare de viță de vie de pe versanții abrupți ai unui amfiteatru natural produc cantități mici de vin din același soi de struguri și soluri ca și vecinul său mult mai mare, Condrieu. Dar a fost recunoscut din 1936 ca un AC separat și se vinde cu mult mai mult. Proprietarul său, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, subliniază faptul că originalitatea vinului obținut din solurile sale de granit și expunerea orientată spre sud a fost recunoscută de secole. Dar unii dintre vecinii ei se întreabă dacă există o astfel de diferență între terroirele Château-Grillet și Condrieu.
Ideea că anumite petice de pământ produc vinuri deosebit de grozave nu este nouă. Filosoful, John Locke, care a vizitat Bordeaux în 1677, a remarcat „particularitatea în sol” a Château Haut-Brion care l-a distins de vecinii săi. O carte a starețului Arnoux, publicată la Londra în 1728, a atribuit măreția lui Montrachet din Burgundia unei anumite fâșii de pământ de pe Coasta de Or.
Ceea ce este un fenomen modern este utilizarea cuvântului „terroir” pentru a descrie ideea. Conotațiile sale originale franceze erau peiorative. Până la mijlocul secolului al XX-lea, un vin terroité însemna un vin rustic, pământesc cu, în cel mai bun caz, un fel de farmec de yokel și, în cel mai rău caz, defecte. Un vin cu un goût de terroir (aroma terroirului) era un vin făcut în mod scăzut, care avea gust de struguri necoapte sau strici. Ideea terroirului ca atribut mai pozitiv nu a apărut până la nașterea sistemului AC în anii 1930.
Fiecare are propria definiție a terroirului. Poate că cel mai simplu este cel al scriitorului american de vinuri Matt Kramer, care îl descrie ca fiind „oarecare”. Majoritatea definițiilor franceze, inclusiv cea a INAO (organismul responsabil pentru sistemul de curent alternativ din Franța), include patru elemente cheie: caracteristicile fizice ale unui loc (în special solul și expunerea), clima acestuia, soiul de struguri folosit și rolul jucat de om .
lista neagră sezonul 5 episodul 7
Puțini oameni ar contesta premisa de bază că vinurile derivă anumite caracteristici din locul în care sunt cultivate strugurii și că omul joacă un rol în exprimarea acelor caracteristici. Dar, având în vedere că aproape fiecare producător de vin pretinde că produce vinuri care respectă terroirul și pretinde că adoptă o abordare „neintervenționistă”, consumatorul are toate motivele să se întrebe ce înseamnă terroir în practică.
nunta jamie dornan și amelia warner
Rădăcinile terroirului
Poate pentru că cuvântul este similar cu „teren”, avem tendința de a asocia terroirul în principal cu solul. La rândul său, acest lucru poate încuraja percepția că vinurile derivă direct un gust din solul în care sunt cultivate.
Un exemplu clasic este Chablis, unul dintre cele mai recunoscute vinuri din lume. În ciuda faptului că este fabricat dintr-un soi de struguri omniprezent, expresia Chablis a Chardonnay este diferită de cea din orice altă regiune. Cele mai renumite vinuri provin din marmă cremă moale Kimmeridgiană, compusă din scoici preistorice de stridii.
Producătorii și scriitorii de vinuri fac adesea o legătură între gustul caracteristic al flintului-iod al vinului și geologia regiunii. „Cum altfel poți explica notele iodate din Chablis dacă nu prin compoziția solului său?”, Se întreabă Bernard Billaud-Simon. „Nu găsești acest gust în Chardonnays cultivate în altă parte.”
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Articole Interesante
