- Supliment Bordeaux 2018
- Repere
- Revista: Ediția din iulie 2018
L-am rugat pe James Lawther, editorul colaborator Decanter de mult timp, să-și aleagă proprietățile preferate din aceste denumiri de pe malul drept. Alegerea sa evidențiază natura în evoluție a regiunii începând cu anii 1990 ...
redarea elementară și apoi apucarea ei
Bordeaux a devenit casa mea în 1996, la St-Emilion și malul drept la 25 de minute de mers cu mașina. Părăsind dealurile ondulate ale Entre-Deux-Mers, drumul scade și traversează Dordogne, mergând spre epicentrul înălțat al St-Emilion, platoul de calcar și côtes. Înaintând mai departe, apar terasele, pârtiile și castelele. Este o vedere încurajatoare și care nu s-a împiedicat de-a lungul anilor. La fel, orașul medieval în sine - fie că este plin de viață din primăvară până la sfârșitul verii sau adormit în timpul iernii.
În anii 1990, malul drept a fost o rafală de activitate. „Mișcarea de garaj” a început în plină desfășurare, o clasificare revizuită pentru St-Emilion în 1996 a provocat o agitație, iar viticultura și vinificația au fost în centrul atenției, cu metode „progresive”, cum ar fi recoltarea verde, acoperirea cu iarbă, recoltare târzie, extracție și îmbătrânire în noi subiecte fierbinți de stejar.
Derulați în jos pentru cele mai bune alegeri ale lui Lawther din castelele sale preferate Pomerol și St-Emilion
La câțiva 20 de ani, revoluția nu mai este în aer, metodele viticole sunt o practică standard și extremele sălbatice ale vinificației au fost reduse. Vinurile de garaj care au supraviețuit fac acum parte din unitate, discuția impusă astăzi de investitori bogați și ultima achiziție și fuziune. Nemodificată este ruralitatea liniștită care încă se menține.
Alegându-mi castelele de top St-Emilion și Pomerol, am încercat să arăt structura regiunii, ilustrând evoluția din anii 1990. Atât creșterile oficiale (Angélus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Pavie), cât și cele neoficiale (Lafleur, Petrus, Le Pin) au fost lăsate deoparte pentru a permite o mai mare amploare. Este o alegere care este mai degrabă personală decât una care este dictată de puncte.
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Vedeți selecțiile t0p ale lui Lawther din castelele sale preferate Pomerol și St-Emilion
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