Ea nu este iubită universal, iar vinurile ei sunt dincolo de majoritatea dintre noi, dar Stephen Brook este îndrăgostit de neobositul Lalou Bize-Leroy
Lalou Bize-Leroy arăta cu greu altfel decât era când venea la Londra la mijlocul anilor 1980 pentru a prezenta vinurile din Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, al cărui familie este parte-proprietar. Are o siluetă ușoară, elfină, cu ochii și părul albastru-cenușiu strălucitori, acum blond-argintiu, mai degrabă decât blond pur, hainele sale sunt chic, dar subevaluate. Este pe deplin plauzibil să ne gândim la această siluetă subțire, elegantă, ca o alpinistă dedicată - pe care a fost-o de zeci de ani. Până când cineva se oprește să ia în considerare faptul că la vârsta ei, ar putea dori să-i odihnească. Dar nu puțin.
Bize-Leroy trăiește și respiră terroirul burgundian. Până în 1988, principala sa preocupare a fost afacerea de negociere a familiei, Maison Leroy, pe care încă o conduce, păstrând pivnițele Meursault aprovizionate cu un milion de sticle de Burgundia fină. Străbunicul ei a fondat-o în 1868, dar tatăl ei a început să construiască stocurile de vinuri vechi începând cu 1919. „Mai avem de vânzare câteva sticle din acel vintage.” Ca să nu mai vorbim de fiecare vintage grozav de atunci. „Principala ocupație a tatălui meu era conducerea Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, așa că nu s-a apucat să vândă vinurile pe care le-a cumpărat.” Bize-Leroy i s-a alăturat în 1955.
O astfel de experiență și perspectivă o plasează într-o poziție formidabilă în ierarhia Burgundiei. ‘Nu am contracte cu cultivatorii și încep de la zero în fiecare an. Dacă îmi place un vin, îl cumpăr. Dacă nu, nu. ”Având astfel de rezerve enorme pe care să le atragă, ea nu se simte obligată să cumpere în fiecare an.
Vinurile Maison Leroy sunt extrem de scumpe, dar se mândrește cu ele. Ea gustă gama aproximativ o dată pe an și decide ce să elibereze, ce să păstreze. Adesea, cele eliberate sunt recolte vechi mature, rupte rapid de colecționari, în special în SUA și Japonia. Deține și Domaine d’Auvenay de 4 hectare din St-Romain, pe care soțul ei Marcel Bize l-a condus până la moartea sa acum câțiva ani. Acum o conduce singură. În ciuda adresei sale modeste, Auvenay are în portofoliu o serie de cruci mari, dar cantitățile sunt minime, iar coada pentru alocări este lungă.
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Articole Interesante
